
Our Perspectives / Published March 4, 2024

SARAH JESSIE LIEZFracTracker Communications Intern
In this article, FracTracker’s Communications Intern Sarah Liez discusses the atrocities of the fast fashion industry, highlighting its connections to fossil fuels and petrochemicals. Fast fashion relies heavily on synthetic materials and nonrenewable energy sources, leaving behind significant environmental footprints and often involving unethical labor practices. Liez urges consumers to refrain from supporting fast fashion brands and advocates for a transition towards more sustainable fashion choices.
As a woman in her twenties, I’ve invested significant time and money into cultivating my wardrobe — keeping up with the latest trends, relishing the treasure hunt of thrifting, periodically revamping my personal style. Concurrently, as an environmental advocate, I’ve dedicated considerable thought and effort to exploring a particularly fascinating yet alarming facet of contemporary apparel: fast fashion.
While I have delved deeply into the intricacies of the fast fashion industry — engaging in conversations with peers, investigating news articles and exposés of SHEIN’s harmful practices, and even orchestrating an educational activity for summer campers — I haven’t fully grasped its direct ties to the fossil fuel industry until recently.
Sure, it’s easy to see how nonrenewable energy powers the manufacturing and distribution of any retail institution. However, it wasn’t until I tuned into a particularly compelling episode of Gimlet’s How to Save a Planet Podcast — which I highly recommend giving a listen — that I truly grasped the extent to which fossil fuels permeate the textile industry, particularly in the textile creation itself.

What is Fast Fashion?
Fast fashion is a relatively new and topical term — one that has overtaken the American fashion industry. The term “fast fashion” denotes inexpensive, fashionable clothing rapidly produced by mass-market retailers. Among today’s titans in retail include SHEIN, Zara, and H&M. These leading brands attract consumers because of the accessibility, affordability, and trendiness of their apparel — leading very few to question, let alone want to question, how did this get so affordable? Where is the catch?
The alluring elements that underpin fast fashion are driven by highly destructive practices. Environmental degradation, a culture of overconsumption, mistreatment of factory workers … the list goes on and on. To explore exactly what makes fast fashion so harmful, we must first understand how most clothing items are made, and how they find their way into our closets. Let’s start with the basics: the materials.
Textile Materials
Today’s textiles — including garments, footwear, or any other fabric-based items — are usually crafted from either raw or synthetic materials, each with vastly different sourcing methods.
Raw materials, or natural fibers, stem directly from living organisms, such as plants or animals. Common natural fibers include cotton, wool, and silk — cotton harvested from cotton plants, wool sheared from sheep, and silk produced by silkworms. Once collected, cleaned, and processed into fibers, the raw materials are spun into yarns or threads that are treated, dyed, and woven into fabric.
Synthetic materials, on the other hand, are artificially synthesized to replicate naturally occurring fibers. The compounds used to create synthetic fibers originate from fossil-fuel derived resources, primarily crude oil or other petrochemicals (chemicals made from petroleum and natural gas). The chemicals first undergo polymerization, forming elongated, linear chemical chains before being transformed into fibers via a process called spinning. The most prominent synthetic fabrics include polyester, nylon, and acrylic.
There also exists semi-synthetic (otherwise known as cellulosic) fabrics, though less common. Unlike the oil and petroleum-based sources used in synthetic fabrics, the polymers used to create these fibers are derived from renewable resources such as wood pulp from trees or bamboo. These fibers undergo a similar manufacturing process to synthetics, being extruded through holes and stretched. Examples of semi-synthetic fabrics include viscose, modal, and lyocell.
Synthetics are often favored over natural fibers for a myriad of reasons — they possess distinct properties and are often more stretchable, waterproof, and stain-resistant. They are also considerably less expensive to manufacture. In 2022, synthetic fibers made up roughly 65% of global fiber production, followed by plant fibers at 27%, semi-synthetic fibers at 6.3%, and animal fibers at 1.7%. This means that most of today’s clothing items — and nearly all fast fashion items — are literally made from fossil fuels.
Source: Textile Exchange based on data from CIRFS, FAO, ICAC, IVC, IWTO, Maia Research, and its own modelling. (2023)
Assembly and Distribution
Once harvested or synthesized, processed, and ready for use, fabrics are shipped to factories, often located in Bangladesh, China, India, or Turkey. While most material creation processes are automated, assembly is often too intricate for machinery, and instead must be completed by human workers.
Garment workers operate in assembly lines, stitching specific sections of each garment before passing them along. Sewing is a labor-intensive task performed manually by workers who guide the stitches themselves, and the complexity of a garment determines the time required for completion. Lastly, garments undergo finishing processes such as dyeing, printing, and adding embellishments before being packaged and distributed to client distribution centers. From there, they are shipped again to be displayed in retail stores or — as is commonplace with fast fashion giants like SHEIN and Zara — placed on a warehouse shelf.
Despite their ubiquity, it is important to recognize that each garment is meticulously handled and sewn by real individuals, not to mention the numerous steps involved in between, from quality assurance checks to reworking and mending to laundering. Unfortunately, the rise of fast fashion has led to prolonged work hours, subpar wages, and downright abusive working conditions for many garment workers.

What are the impacts?
As you can see, clothing manufacturing is a complex and time-consuming process. The cost of most fashion items today, though, don’t reflect this — in the fast fashion industry especially, where a pair of boots can cost as little as $9.00. This is the time to ask the question “Where is the catch?” The answer is that the fast fashion industry cuts corners and lowers costs at the expense of others — be it human lives, institutions, or the environment.
Environmental Impacts
Fast fashion’s environmental impacts extend to the depletion of non-renewable resources, greenhouse gas emissions, and extensive water and energy use. First, synthetic materials are made from fossil fuels themselves — oil, natural gas, and other petrochemicals are transformed into polyester, nylon, and spandex. The energy-intensive process of converting plastic fibers into textiles demands substantial amounts of petroleum and natural gas and emits volatile particulate matter and acids like hydrogen chloride. Shipping and transportation represent another central source of pollution, as fast fashion brands prioritize speedy delivery times and often maintain an online-only or predominantly online presence. Consequently, their entire inventory must be packaged and shipped to each individual consumer.
Per a report of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) from 2018, the fashion industry ranks as the second-largest industry consumer of water, with production figures showing it takes about 700 gallons to craft a single cotton shirt and 2,000 gallons for a pair of jeans. Microplastics are also a pertinent issue, for synthetic fabrics have prolonged decomposition periods, contributing to the accumulation of microplastics in oceans. A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of microplastics in the ocean stem from the laundering of synthetic textiles.
Worker’s Rights
Sweatshops — small manufacturing establishments with unfair and unhygienic working conditions — are prevalent in the fast fashion industry. Leading brands often source their clothing from suppliers in underdeveloped nations where production is outsourced to unregistered vendors who evade legal requirements for safe working conditions. Workers, often women and children, endure grueling workdays and meager pay, leading to a cycle of poverty and exploitation.
On April 24th in 2013, the unsafe working conditions and lack of regulatory oversight of garment workers were brought to international attention and horror when a building collapsed in Savar, Bangladesh. Rana Plaza was a commercial building that housed several garment factories, shops, and a bank. Despite visible cracks appearing in the building the day before, workers were ordered to return to work the next day. Tragically, the building collapsed, resulting in the deaths of 1,134 people and injuring over 2,500 others, making it one of the deadliest industrial disasters in history.
Let’s Talk About SHEIN
SHEIN stands out as the epitome of fast fashion excesses and pitfalls. While the practices and negatives associated with fast fashion are prevalent across the industry, SHEIN’s scale and influence surpass all others. The fashion behemoth processes an estimated 880,000 orders daily, with their annual revenue skyrocketing from $10 billion in 2020 to an eye-popping $24 billion in 2022.
Its business model is unparalleled in its magnitude, with SHEIN introducing anywhere from 700 to 1,000 new items to its inventory each day. Unlike its competitors, which typically take around two weeks to move from design to delivery, SHEIN has condensed this timeline to as little as three days. This rapid, ceaseless production exacerbates an already harmful cycle — more pollution, exploitation of labor, and rampant overconsumption.
SHEIN’s business model fosters a cycle of mass overconsumption and throwaway culture. Its garments, predominantly made from low-quality synthetics, lack durability. The brand’s swift turnarounds cater to fleeting trends, ensuring their content reflects what is popular in the moment — meaning these clothes don’t have to live past their short, fashionable lifespan. Yet, while these garments have a short lifespan in our closets, their environmental impact lingers for far longer. Synthetic fabrics, as previously noted, are not biodegradable, meaning that most SHEIN products will quickly outlast their usefulness and contribute considerably to landfill waste. Not to mention, almost every SHEIN item is individually packaged in a plastic zip-top bag — even those arriving in the same package. Considering the thousands of items dispatched daily, this results in a significant accumulation of plastic waste destined for landfills.
SHEIN also demonstrates a notable lack of transparency regarding its social and sustainability impacts. Despite sporadic use of lower-impact materials and a stated commitment to support the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), there is little evidence that the brand is actively addressing its environmental footprint. Likewise, information regarding their labor practices remains elusive. While the company claims to uphold high labor standards across its supply chain and enforce a Code of Conduct for all supplies in compliance with local labor laws, these laws can vary drastically between regions and often lack humane standards to begin with. Moreover, these assertions are additionally vague and lack substantive verification, casting doubt on the brand’s commitment to ethical practices and accountability.

What the Average Consumer Can Do
It’s easy to feel helpless — after all, we’re all just one person, one consumer. Still, it is important to self-actualize your beliefs by taking action on this issue, however small. Here is a list of what you can do:
Educate Yourself and Others
Learn (as you have in this article) about the environmental and social impacts of fast fashion. Take time to understand the consequences of mass production, exploitation of labor, and the disposal of clothing. Share what you learn with friends, family, and on social media and encourage others to join the movement towards more sustainable and ethical fashion choices.
Repair, Upcycle, Donate, and Recycle
Do your best to extend the life of your clothing by repairing items when possible or repurposing them into new garments or accessories. You can learn basic sewing skills or support local tailors and repair shops. Instead of discarding unwanted clothing, donate them to charities or organizations that redistribute clothing to those in need. For items that are beyond repair, explore textile recycling options to minimize waste.
Be a Conscious Consumer
Ask questions about where and how your clothing is made. Advocate for transparency and ethical standards within the fashion industry by supporting initiatives that promote worker rights and environmental sustainability. Seek out brands that prioritize sustainability, ethical production practices, and transparency. Look for certifications such as Fair Trade, Global organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and B Corp, or utilize platforms like Fashion Revolution and GoodOnYou for credible brand evaluations.
Explore secondhand options by visiting thrift stores, consignment shops, and online platforms for pre-loved clothing. Buying secondhand reduces demand for new production and extends the lifespan of garments.
Consider boycotting fast fashion brands altogether — this is by far the most effective way to align your actions with your values and combat fast fashion. While there are various reasons why people are drawn to these brands, such as affordability, accessibility, and inclusive sizing, I urge you, at the very least, to never shop at SHEIN again. SHEIN epitomizes the worst practices of the fast fashion industry. If you ever find yourself tempted to buy from brands associated with unethical practices in the future, steer clear of SHEIN at all costs.
Read more from FracTracker Alliance about how fast fashion is fossil fueled.
What You Should Read Next


Can California Energy Policy Move Past its Contradictions?

Data Gaps: A Critical Examination of Oil and Gas Well Incidents in Ohio

Indigenous Communities’ Fight Against CO2 Pipelines in the Great Plains

Pennsylvania Oil and Gas Industry Trends: Drilled Wells, Violations, Production, and Waste

A Closer Look at Risks of the Appalachian Hydrogen Hub

Falcon Pipeline Criminal Charges Explained

The Importance of Surveying Rural Landowners in North Dakota on Fracking

Exploring the Fallout of Precision Scheduled Rail: A Rail Worker’s Perspective on Precision Scheduled Rail

Not-So-Radical Transparency: An Ineffective and Unnecessary Partnership Between Pennsylvania Governor Shapiro and the Gas Company CNX

California Must Improve Management of Idle Wells

Holes in FracFocus

Mapping PFAS Chemicals Used in Fracking Operations in West Virginia

Chevron’s $2.3 Billion Asset Adjustment Raises Questions Amidst Regulatory Changes in California

Stop Toxic Threat: A Heavy Industrial Zoning Battle

East Palestine Warning: The Growing Threat From Hazardous Waste Storage

Index of Oil and Gas Operator Health in California Shows Risks to State Economy and Taxpayers

Calling for Change: Life on the Fracking Frontlines

On the Wrong Track: Risks to Residents of the Upper Ohio River Valley From Railroad Incidents

Digital Atlas: Exploring Nature and Industry in the Raccoon Creek Watershed

Why Do Houses Keep Exploding in One Pennsylvania Suburb?

FracTracker Alliance Releases Statement Opposing Governor Shapiro’s Agreement With CNX

Oil and Gas Activity Within California Public Health Protection Zones

Assessment of Oil and Gas Well Ownership Transfers in California

Evaluation of the Capacity for Water Recycling for Colorado Oil and Gas Extraction Operations

Evidence Shows Oil and Gas Companies Use PFAS in New Mexico Wells

CalGEM Permit Review Q1 2023: Well Rework Permits Increase by 76% in California

2022 Pipeline Incidents Update: Is Pipeline Safety Achievable?

Testimony On EPA’s Proposed Methane Pollution Standards for the Oil and Gas Industry

Assessment of Rework Permits on Oil Production from Operational Wells Within the 3,200-Foot Public Health Protection Zone

CalGEM Permit Review Q4 2022: Oil Permit Approvals Show Steep Rise Within Protective Buffer Zones

A Contentious Landscape of Pipeline Build-outs in the Eastern US

Major Gas Leak Reveals Risks of Aging Gas Storage Wells in Pennsylvania

Coursing Through Gasland: A Digital Atlas Exploring Natural Gas Development in the Towanda Creek Watershed

Falcon Pipeline Online, Begins Operations Following Violations of Clean Streams Law

Synopsis: Risks to the Greater Columbus Water Supply from Oil and Gas Production

Desalination: The Chemical Industry’s Demand for Water in Texas

Take Action in Support of No New Leases

Carbon Capture and Storage: Developments in the Law of Pore Space in North Dakota

Carbon Capture and Storage: Industry Connections and Community Impacts

Carbon Capture and Storage: Fact or Fiction?

Pipeline Right-of-Ways: Making the Connection between Forest Fragmentation and the Spread of Lyme Disease in Southwestern Pennsylvania

FracTracker Finds Widespread Hydrocarbon Emissions from Active & Idle Oil and Gas Wells and Infrastructure in California

California Regulators Approve More Oil Well Permits Amid a Crisis of Leaking Oil Wells that Should be Plugged

An Insider Take on the Appalachian Hydrogen & CCUS Conference

Does Hydrogen Have a Role in our Energy Future?

Oil and Gas Brine in Ohio

PA Environment Digest Blog: Conventional Oil & Gas Drillers Dispose Of Drill Cuttings By ‘Dusting’

Real Talk on Pipelines

2021 Production from Pennsylvania’s Oil and Gas Wells

Mapping Energy Systems Impacted by the Russia-Ukraine War

Dimock residents working to protect water from a new threat: fracking waste

Implications of a 3,200-foot Setback in California

New Trends in Drilling Permit Approvals Take Shape in CA

Oil and Gas Drilling in California Legislative Districts

New Report: Fracking with “Forever Chemicals” in Colorado

Introducing: FracTracker’s comprehensive new Pennsylvania map!

New Letter from Federal Regulators Regarding how the Falcon has Been Investigated

US Army Corps Muskingum Watershed Plan ignores local concerns of oil and gas effects

Oil and gas companies use a lot of water to extract oil in drought-stricken California

Southeastern Texas Petrochemical Industry Needs 318 Billion Gallons of Water, but the US EPA Says Not So Fast

Chickahominy Pipeline project tries to exploit an apparent regulatory loophole

Map Update on Criminal Charges Facing Mariner East 2 Pipeline

It’s Time to Stop Urban Oil Drilling in Los Angeles

Infrastructure Networks in Texas

California Prisons are Within 2,500’ of Oil and Gas Extraction

New power plant proposal called senseless and wasteful by climate groups

Ongoing Safety Concerns over Shell’s Falcon Pipeline

New Neighborhood Drilling Permits Issued While California Fails to Act on Public Health Rules

The world is watching as bitcoin battle brews in the US


California Oil & Gas Drilling Permits Drop in Response to Decreased Permit Applications to CalGEM

California Denies Well Stimulation Permits

Mapping PFAS “Forever Chemicals” in Oil & Gas Operations

Updated National Energy and Petrochemical Map

Ohio, West Virginia, Pennsylvania Fracking Story Map

Ohio & Fracking Waste: The Case for Better Waste Management

Pennsylvania Conventional Well Map Update

Impacts of 2020 Colonial Pipeline Rupture Continue to Grow

Gas Storage Plan vs. Indigenous Rights in Nova Scotia

Mapping Gathering Lines in Bradford County, Pennsylvania

Trends in fracking waste coming to New York State from Pennsylvania

2021 Pipeline Incidents Update: Safety Record Not Improving

New York State Oil & Gas Well Drilling: Patterns Over Time

Risky Byhalia Connection Pipeline Threatens Tennessee & Mississippi Health, Water Supply

Shell’s Falcon Pipeline Under Investigation for Serious Public Safety Threats

Kern County’s Drafted EIR Will Increase the Burden for Frontline Communities

Pennsylvania’s Waste Disposal Wells – A Tale of Two Datasets

California Oil & Gas Setbacks Recommendations Memo

Oil and Gas Wells on California State Lands

Industrial Impacts in Michigan: A Photo Essay & Story Map

People and Production: Reducing Risk in California Extraction

Documenting emissions from new oil and gas wells in California


FracTracker in the Field: Building a Live Virtual Map


Mapping Gathering Lines in Ohio and West Virginia

The North Dakota Shale Viewer Reimagined: Mapping the Water and Waste Impact

Falcon Pipeline Construction Releases over 250,000 Gallons of Drilling Fluid in Pennsylvania and Ohio

Systematic Racism in Kern County Oil and Gas Permitting Ordinance

Fracking Water Use in Pennsylvania Increases Dramatically

New Yorkers mount resistance against North Brooklyn Pipeline

California, Back in Frack

California Setback Analyses Summary

Air Pollution from Pennsylvania Shale Gas Compressor Stations – REPORT

New York State Oil & Gas Wells – 2020 Update

National Energy and Petrochemical Map

Governor Newsom Must Do More to Address the Cause of Oil Spill Surface Expressions

Oil & Gas Well Permits Issued By Newsom Administration Rival Those Issued Under Gov. Jerry Brown

Pipelines Continue to Catch Fire and Explode

The Hidden Inefficiencies and Environmental Costs of Fracking in Ohio

Fracking in Pennsylvania: Not Worth It

Fracking Threatens Ohio’s Captina Creek Watershed


How State Regulations Hold Us back and What Other Countries are doing about Fracking

New Method for Locating Abandoned Oil and Gas Wells is Tested in New York State


Abandoned Wells in Pennsylvania: We’re Not Doing Enough


The Underlying Politics and Unconventional Well Fundamentals of an Appalachian Storage Hub

Permitting New Oil and Gas Wells Under the Newsom Administration

Mapping the Petrochemical Build-Out Along the Ohio River

Impact of a 2,500′ Oil and Gas Well Setback in California

Production and Location Trends in PA: A Moving Target

The Falcon Public Monitoring Project

Release: The 2019 You Are Here map launches, showing New York’s hurdles to climate leadership

Idle Wells are a Major Risk

Literally Millions of Failing, Abandoned Wells

Wicked Witch of the Waste

The Growing Web of Oil and Gas Pipelines

Unnatural Disasters

Getting Rid of All of that Waste – Increasing Use of Oil and Gas Injection Wells in Pennsylvania

A Disturbing Tale of Diminishing Returns in Ohio

Pennsylvania Drilling Trends in 2018
216 Franklin St, Suite 400, Johnstown, PA 15901
Phone: +1 (717) 303-0403 | info@fractracker.org
FracTracker Alliance is a 501(c)3 non-profit: Tax identification number: 80-0844297
Leave a Reply
Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!